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  1. Past hour
  2. I have figures from both Daz Studio and Adobe Fuse (Mixamo) that are easy to bring into C4D already rigged and weight mapped. What's missing is a relatively easy way to add IKs and controllers to the rig to allow for easy positioning/animating. I know the bare minimum to use the IK tags and add poles and so on to at least avoid the worst 'chicken leg' distortions of figures, but there must be a way to get better results from stock figures like this? What do you do with hands, for example? The character tool seems ok for building rigs from scratch, but I don't know how or if it can help with existing rigs. I used to use Cactus Dan's (sadly discontinued) plugins which could easily add a 'hand' tag to a suitable bone hierarchy, for example. Is there anything like that for C4D's built-in bone/joint objects to add all the intricate IK controllers/poles/targets etc. ?
  3. Today
  4. I'm currently working on a plugin which necessitates being able to adaptively create skinned meshes based on data read from a file. I've managed to get it to the point where a correctly jointed structure is created underneath the mesh, according to the data provided. It is here that I am encountering an issue. I've been able to successfully select the mesh and all the joints that are below it, but I cannot figure out how to then use the bind the selection in Python. I've tried calling "c4d.CallCommand(1019881, 1019881)" which is supposed to be the equivalent of the "Bind" command, but it doesn't seem to be working. Does anyone know why this might be the case, or if there is an alternate way to do this via code?
  5. Printer Ordered

    You can add them in manually and I would have thought you could even do that in c4d. For this I would suggest leaving 0.05mm of a cap between the support and your model and try and make them as small as possible without it affecting the integrity of the model. I've always used the slicers settings to add the supports, so if your going to do them manually I'd also suggest watching some youtube videos on it. Simplify3d has the option to either manual add supports or automatically add them, and there's a couple of different sorts. You could do a couple of tests in different slicers before actually printing anything. After the slicer has sliced the model you get to see what it will look like when it comes off the printer so you can judge how easy they're going to be to remove. It's a bit hit and miss, some slicers add far to many, others don't add enough! If your not ready to purchase simplify3d, then download all the free ones and slice the same model in each of them with the same settings. And try different support settings as well, that can make a difference. If you haven't got them already, I'd suggest getting some sandpaper, sharp craft knife, scrapper, wire snips or scissors, and tweezers. A dremel works well too. They'll all help no end when removing prints from the bed and the supports, and cleaning it up afterwards.
  6. Bevel Tool

    Here is a tutorial on the Bevel Tool:
  7. Glad you think so!
  8. Printer Ordered

    Ok, will look into the cutter. You mentioned extra support being required earlier. Should I model easy to remove support where I think it's needed or should the print software recognise where it's needed and built it automatically?
  9. Hi, I recently got my hands on R18 up from R16 and my Macbook pro 2017 renders the exact same shot slower than in R16 R16 time - 2:02 R18 time - 2:32 Any idea why this would be? I noticed the fans don't come on when rendering in R18 but they do in R16. Makes me think it's not turbo boosting up to the highest CPU output in R18 but i cant understand why that would be. Any advice will be appreciated. P.S. Also tested both these on my old macbook pro 2013 and the fans come on both in R16 and R18, which suggests it to do with the new macbook pro and R18 Thanks!
  10. Printer Ordered

    For the Colido bed you should have masking tape on first, then either the glue stick or hairspray. If I didn't have a heated bed I'd need to use it as well! The PEI gives an amazing finish to the first layer. It's almost like mirror like, so smooth and shinny! The nozzle temp varies for what your using. For pla anything between 195 - 220 is good. I have mine set at 210 with a bed temp of 60. I've stuck to PLA for the time being, but will be trying flexible pla, wood, nylon and petg when they arrive. If you want to try abs, you'll want to try it in the shed or garage!! It smells whilst it's printing, and it's not very nice, it can stink the house out. You mentioned earlier about making a cookie cutter. Just something to be weary of although a lot of people use pla for them, pla isn't the best material and it's not dishwasher safe, it will warp!! You also have to consider the layer size as food particles can get stuck between the layers, which will then lead to other problems!
  11. Using Lathe Nurb to create a conch shell

    Hello , personally I would do a rough shape using sweep object and playing around with details tab to match the overall shape , then make a copy editable and do fine tuning manually .
  12. Hi and welcome, Simply use xpscale modifier. In my example is used spline mode to set smooth transition at the end of life particles... xparticles_scale_endoflife.zip
  13. Printer Ordered

    Amazing info thanks Jim. I heard that people put some masking tape on the bed for better adhesion. There was also a top to raise the extruded temp to 200.
  14. Printer Ordered

    Sounds like your off to a good start. I don't know how much you know about the settings used when slicing the models, but I'll give you some pointers which will hopefully help. What slicer are you using? If I remember correctly the Colido comes with Cura 14. something? There's now an update for that to Cura 15.04. There's also a different version of Cura which is Cura 3.0.2. I don't know why there's 2 versions as they're both free and both by Ultimaker! As far as slicers go there's Cura 15.04, Cura 3.0.2, Slic3r, and RepeteirHost which are free. Then there is Simplify3D which is £113. There are others, but these are the top ones. For slicing Cura 15, Slic3r and RepetierHost I would say are adequate when you first start out. However both Cura 15 and RepetierHost give you better control of the printer itself than the others. Cura 3.0.2 is more advanced, it gives you a lot more control over how the model is sliced. Then you have Simplify3D which is slightly more advanced again with a better user interface. I've use Cura 15 for when I need to control the printer when connected via usb, this allows me to move the bed and nozzle, heat either or the bed and nozzle. I can also send various commands which controls certain things whilst it's printing. And then I use Simplify 3D as I get a lot more control over how the models are sliced and I can alter the gcode if I need to. I would suggest printing from the sd card, for the simple reason that if your computer goes down for any reason your printer will carry on, but as the Colido doesn't have a screen I'm not sure how that would work! Unless you start the print from your computer and then disconnect? Anything more than a 45° - 50° angle usually require supports. I say usually because on some printers you can bridge a gap, so you can go to a 90° angle without supports. I don't know how good the Colido will be at bridging, it's not something I tried. It also depends heavily on what cooling fans you have and how the airflow is directed. Stringing happens when the nozzle moves from one point to another without printing in between. If you don't retract the filament enough you get strings between the two parts, but if you retract to much it can miss a bit when it starts printing again. I've got mine set at retraction 7.5mm at a speed of 1800mm/min and with that I have no problems. Prints lifting off the bed and moving is down to bed adhesion. I used cheap hairspray when I was using the Colido, but glue sticks also help. I'm currently using PEI, it's amazing stuff. I got 2 300 x 300 sheets for £25, it sounds expensive!, but I've only used 1 sheets so far and have done around 75+ prints on it and it's still going strong. You can even dig a scraper in to it with out affecting it's performance. All you have to do is wipe it over with nail polish remover every couple of prints! With the size of the Colido's bed you should get a few pieces out of 1 piece. The only problem I see is I don't know how well it will work on a none heated bed! Hope this helps. Have fun over the weekend. Jim
  15. TD Master Section / Now Available

    Just watched the rubik lesson and must say this was one of the most advanced things I saw being built in C4D, congrats H that was superb!
  16. Points to circle

    Not sure why you have that issue, but the easiest way to resolve that is to simply use the Rotate Tool to fix the problem. You can also change the circle radius size without the change to the script using the Scale Tool.
  17. Points to circle

    thanks ! searched for it in the Python tab but didnt found it. Also the script seem to rotate the points by default. Is it possible to edit the script to diminished that?
  18. Can you send me that bug report txt?
  19. Points to circle

    Install Points to Circle into your C4D Scripts folder, restart C4D, then go to Script>Script Manager, choose the C.O.F.F.E.E. tab and make sure Points to Circle is chosen as the script. Then alter var radius = 50; on Line 8 to the radius you want:
  20. Points to circle

    any guide on how to edit this script to change the default size or the circle ?
  21. Legoman plays whack-a-mole

    Thanks Jed, Yes I came to that conclusion after long hours of experimenting with the base80. I have managed to rig my car with your dynamics tutorials for the mini. It works well . I will have a look at your new rig and see what that can do for me. Excellent tutorial I have learned a few new xpresso set ups that might come in handy for future projects. And I must say you have an infectious laugh, every time I switch your tutorials on at the part were you laugh my wife bursting into laughter. i do need the car to react to the terrain contours, and suspension movements. I will post my results later.
  22. Optimize spline

    @bezo, @ABMotion thank you so much guys!! Thats what i was looking for, you saved me huge amount of time!
  23. really cool stuff on there, thanks for sharing.
  24. Printer Ordered

    First experiences... Set up was quick and easy although the little thumb drive they provide didn't work at all. Luckily everything I needed was on their website. It connected fine and without hassle. Test printed loaded and sliced without issue and the printer got it right first time. Loaded up c4d and made some simple things to print which were small. And that worked fine. Made a slight more complex model with over hangs and it struggled with it a bit and the finish wasn't so good. I understand the lack of a part cooling fan may be the problem but you can help it with a usb desktop fan to improve this. I did leave this printing and went to spend some time with the other half. Somewhere half way through the print it had gone wrong and I had a mass of stringy plastic built up. I extruded some lettering and tried printing that but some letters seemed to lift from the bed and move about which is no good. I also had the bed completely move at one point so will use tape like you did. I didn't have enough time to do too much printing so this weekend I will do more. I have been asked for a specific shaped cookie cutter so will see if I can successfully do that. Watching it print is hypnotic. Also the software isn't bad and easy to use. More to come.....hopefully
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