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marian neulant

Bend a selection

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@Cerbera, do you have tuts online...? I'd love to learn some more on topology.


Thanks in advance.


João Marco


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5 minutes ago, jmarco said:

do you have tuts online...? I'd love to learn some more on topology.

Mostly I just don't have time, but every so often there are just the odd bits here and there - no videos so far though...

Most of it's over here, in Cerbera's Rockin' GIF Tips.



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  • wow, that looks awesome!

    ..teach me! please!

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    5 minutes ago, marian neulant said:

    wow, that looks awesome!

    ..teach me! please!

    Thank you, and yes of course I'll show you how. But I have a client job I have to finish first. It'll be this evening at the latest :)



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    Great. I'm on the front seat.

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    OK, Let's get this done... this is part 1 of 2, and part 2 is coming later tonight.


    1. Get your reference object, and drop it just below Y0 so you can build stuff on top of it. It should sit just under the grid like this.




    2. Get a 16 segment Disc Primitive, give it a small inner radius, and in Top View, line up the upper right quadrant of it with the inner corner of the shape, like this...




    3. Copy that 3 more times and move / scale the discs so that the right quadrants outline the right corners ! The bits we want are highlighted on the right...


    3.thumb.jpg.2e936da3fabcb58e264cf323297260c9.jpg  4.thumb.jpg.51d2cedf63893f01f2d02b5217a5586e.jpg


    4. Select all the discs, Connect Objects + Delete them into one, then remove all but the polygons we need, like this...




    5. Now Edge Mode, and get the Bridge Tool, and join the missing sections like this...




    6. Now we need to add some additional segmentation, so select these edges, and get the Edge Cut Tool. Use that by clicking in the viewport and dragging right until you have added 4 edges to each of the highlighted polys above, like so...






    7. Now we actually have too many edges, so we need to select these ones, and Dissolve them away.




    8. Now we should pop back into top view,  redistribute the edges so they are more even, and tweak corner positions to better match the reference using slide tool, polygon pen, or just by moving individual points. When you've done that it will look something like this, and now we need to adjust the outer edge loop to match the outside corners, like this...


    9.thumb.jpg.193ac1b898a431dc45aedcdefd0773d0.jpg 10.thumb.jpg.1853c4b66f29f40c4a2e9bc833750b98.jpg


    Looks a bit scrappy, but it's just about enough edges to support that shape.


    9. Previously we have been working flat, because it's easier. Now we have to get the top slope, and we need to move some edges to do that....

    Select the edges shown below and scale them to 0 on X so they go completely flat and aligned.


    11a.jpg.11c97d7e64fddf117ba7b1b641e47b12.jpg  11b.jpg.8a1125cc298f2d8988f47f60c471a894.jpg


    10. Now they line up we can quickly slide the points about either side to even things up a bit, then select the polys below, and move our modelling axis to X-100 as shown...




    11. Now we can hinge (rotate) those polys down to make the slope of the ref object, like that....




    12. Now let's make the circle bit. Get a Disc of 32 sides and line it up with the reference... Give it an inner radius so it becomes a ring. We are going to quad-fill that center bit.




    13. Select these edges, get the Stitch n Sew Command (r-click menu) hold shift and drag from one side to the other (from any point to its equivalent  on the other side) to bridge those edges... next, cut that in half with a single Loop Cut at 50%.
    Next get Close Polygon Hole and fill in the 2 gaps. Finally, use the Line Cut tool to cut those last bits into quads. When you're done it should look like this (second pic).






    14. Now we can use Stitch n Sew again to multi-bridge the circle into our shape below. Connect and Delete the models so they become one, select the 2 edges loops, check the selected total says 64 edges, and SnS as we did before to bridge the gap.... If you've done that right, it will look like this...




    Lastly for this bit, select all polys and check they are orange. If any are blue facing up then you need to Align Normals from the r-click menu.


    And that's it for Part 1 - back for Part 2 after dinner !!




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    OK, here's Part 2 of that...


    15. Now let's do U,L to get the loop Select Tool (boundary mode ticked) and select the perimeter edges. (Or the easier way is to just get any of the transform tools (move, scale, rotate etc) tools and double click the loop). Now get the Rotate tool, make sure the modelling axis is reset to 0,0,0, then hold CTRL and scale out slightly to get a new row of edges. Move those down to line up with the model like so...






    At this, point, I forgot the back is actually flat, but now you do know that, select the straight line of edges on that side and move them in slightly so the back goes straight down ! ;) You'll probably also have to alter some corner points now to better match the underlying model. Also scale it to Y0 to flatten the loop. Hold shift as you do that to make snapping it to 0 easier.


    16. Next, Ctrl scale the edge in a bit this time to make a neat border rim to the base, like below.

    Now we need to quad-cap that, and might as well show you another way to do that while I'm at it.




    Get a 1 x 1 plane roughly the size of the hole, and line it up with the model....




    17. Put that under SDS, change editor and render subdivisions to 3, and voila - an almost perfect quad disc with 32 segments - just what we need !
    'Apply' the SDS to the plane by selecting it and hitting C to make editable.




    18. COaD those 2 objects into 1, then select the border edge loops, and Stitch n Sew as we did earlier, to give you this...






    19. Now, with those polys selected get the Poly Brush Tool, set it to smooth, and go nuts to even out our polys, which should give you something like this...




    Btw, the reason these quad patches look a bit scrappy is because each of the 4 corners of that shape are different radii, so it is impossible to patch them in a very linear fashion... with a regular form this would be a lot neater ! But what ISN'T scrappy is the perfect line of polys along our perimeter, it is the regularity of those that is important here, which is why we didn't smooth them as well.


    20. Nearly there ! Just need to add some control loops now so that we tighten certain edges under Subdivision. Experience told me where to put these, but basically the rule is that the tighter the edge you want, the closer your control loops should be to the center line. Add these using Loop Cut in Edge Distance Mode. Make sure you hover over the correct side of the line when you add these so that you maintain the even distance from the correct edge ! If you've done it right, it will look like below...




    We want very tight edges down by the circle, and up at the top of the indent, so look how close the control loops are there. but at the outer edges we want a much softer transition, so that loop is only controlled on one side, and it's a fair way away from the centerline, so gives us the soft curve we want there.


    21. Last job of the day is pop this model under an L3 Subdivision Surface, and you're good to go...




    22. For your own benefit and learning experience, once you have saved the final file, now remove (select and dissolve) all the control edges you just added. Note what happens to the mesh now under subdivision - it collapses into a soft mushy sort of approximation of the original mesh. That should be a valuable demonstration of what control loops are for and their importance to Sub-D modelling.


    Perhaps also take a moment to appreciate that your work has led to a model that is perfectly smooth in every regard, but one that is also eminently suitable for further deformation or editing with any of Cinema's deformers or other tools. Try a few, and see how nicely the mesh responds to them because it is built properly out of all-quads and obeys the laws of modelling :) Compare and contrast that what you were originally working with, and hopefully you will see the value of how putting in a little more effort at the modelling stage will almost always lead to nicer results.


    If this was your first time modelling this way, this may have looked like a fairly long and protracted exercise, but with practice you could make that, as I did, in under 10 minutes, which is arguably less time than it would have taken to go the way of buggering about with making 2 intersecting shapes, Booles and the Volume Builder. Additiionally, the Volume Builder would have taken about 3 million polys to do this even if it could achieve the smoothness based on the source geo - worth noting that we did it in just 64 polys, and at no time did our computer stress or make us wait trying to calculate them ! :)


    Anyway, lecture concluded, hope that helps ! ;)  Any questions just ask...





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  • hey cbr,

    thank you so much for your detailed description ... (couldn´t find the right emoticon for my thankfulness!)

    i will do the whole process hopefully tonight, started a bit yet. and i see a very different aproach than

    i thought. supercool.

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    You're welcome, Marian. Anything to try and help raise the general standard of modelling going on in the world ! :)



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  • hey cbr,


    i tried to recreate part one and ran in some problems and have some questions:

    -how did you treat the blue object to have no visible mesh, that is irritating in the process

    -with the bridge tool, i had some points over each other, did not know how to avoid this

    -the glide tool didn´t work as expected, ... i have to look it up in the manual

    -had some problems with the stich tool, couldn´t convince it to be more symmetrical

    ... and could not close last polygon

    and is there a way to line up points?


    ...sorry so many questions








    Edited by Cerbera
    removed quote !

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