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Tuck mesh elements togther closely

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Hi wonderful team, here is my second shoe modeling attempt 🙂
Baby steps but I'm so happy with it. I wanted your critique and advice on practices when it comes to tucking parts together and make it look aligned, or close together. to avoid mesh  parts coming off surfaces like in attached images. my plan is to keep using the magnet tool, along side modifying points, and maybe the grab brush. was wondering if there is a more precise way or better approach.

I dislike what I'm doing now because, if I'm not too careful when pushing or pulling, I end up with overlapping polygons, some times welded points that kills edge loops I spent hours making it look nice. 😄

- Edit: removed SDS applied screenshots. uploaded without SDS/Cloth


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Yes and no. The following tips below will all help, but at the end of the day there are not many serious modelling projects where you don't spend the majority of your time vertex tweaking ! So the ultimate solution is to grow to love doing that 😉 But that is not to say it can't be minimized...


1. Always use Isoline editing, so you are looking at the useful base mesh rather than all the thousands of polys generated by SDS.
Same applies when uploading images, so we too have an easier time seeing the edge flow. 😉 


2. Create each new part you can by splitting away sections of the existing mesh, which will of course already match its curvature.
Split and occasionally Disconnect are the tools you need for that.


3. HB Modelling bundle (which you should have if you are serious about modelling) contains an awesome retopo setup that can be pressed into a secondary service and used to build new part topology directly on the surface of existing objects where you have the massive advantage of being able to re-project / align it to the surface of the source mesh at any time with a single click.


4. Simple snapping modes like Poly snap can help polys stick to the surface of others as you model.


5. Avoid Soft Selection, on the whole, which is very difficult to precisely setup so that it affects the areas you need without also breaking areas you don't want to alter.


6. Instead of Magnet Tool use the Sculpt Grab brush, but with 25-50% smoothing added in via the FX modifier button in the tool. That way your polys will 'auto-regularise' as you tweak them, which tends to lead to clean, even, non intersecting geo more than when not doing so...


7. If there are hundreds of base mesh vertices to move / align, consider doing it with an FFD instead, so you have to wrangle many less points.


8. If using poly pen for vertex tweaking, turn off auto-weld, which will stop it doing that annoying thing where it welds points unintentionally. Additionally, always work with a new mesh object, so the new part you are adding cannot be accidentally welded to the underlying mesh.


9. If you have the base mesh for an existing new part, you can project it to the surface of the underlying model using the oft-overlooked  Project mesh Command. This ONLY works if the object you have doesn't have vertical depth, so is best used when you have the 'flat version' before any thickness is added.


10. The Surface Deformer has UV modes which can be useful in repositioning elements while they continue to match underlying curvature.


Think that's the main ones, but doubtless there are many more that will come back to me over time 🙂 Hope that's enough to be getting on with...



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  • Cerbera, Thank you for the advice. and oh I love HB Modelling bundle, It helps in so many ways.

    I want to start playing with Project mesh command, and see if I can apply it to selected points 🙂

    Also, I think I need to practice point no. 2 , I usually start a new polygon from scratch for each element.

    I edited the post. uploaded the same model without SDS.

    Thanks again, have a nice weekend.

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