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hayley

Redoing my 3 month project... HELP not to waste my time again

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Hello! 

I made a black panther helmet. Well, I thought I did it.  I was new to this then, so I don´t know why I applyed subdivison in the end of the process of modeling. But I did. Sad story. Also the "wakanda details" aren´t as good as it could be. Can you suggest any other way than manually cut detail and then bevel so it has 3 cuts and then push the middle cut inside helmet? Also to subdivison,  I tryed the weight so the details are not ruined as much, but they are so connected and there is plenty of it  so it looks even worse. I want to print it but it would look RIDICULOUS without the smooth effect subdivison gives. PLEASE HELP. I tryed my best but I think I need to redo, it because there is no way back.

 

 

Bez názvu.png

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Although the one on the left initially looks OK in that it is at least quads, unfortunately they are the wrong quads because they don't support the surface detail, and have no form-specific edge flow to speak of 😞  The bad news is that because of that, this mesh, and its up and down edge flow and excessive base mesh density, cannot be pressed into becoming a Black Panther Helmet. Forgive me, but on the right you don't even seem aware of the most basic rule of SDS poly modelling that you cannot accept ANY triangles !

SDS requires all quads on curved organic surfaces, no exceptions ! Additionally, the edge flow is just totally wrong, and so you will be fighting Subdivision all the way, and constantly solving problems that cause others elsewhere. You simply cannot cut at 45 degrees to the established edge flow on a curved surface and not cause devastating SDS deformation issues that are genuinely unsolvable without starting again.

 

There is one way to rescue this now - re-topologise a new surface with correct edge flow over the top of your existing mesh. You were correct around the eyes, but it all went wrong after that. If you have the HB Modelling bundle the retopo setup in that is perfect for that task - without it you are rather limited to polygon snapping and the poly pen to make your new mesh stick to the old one.

 

If this was ONLY for printing, then strictly speaking, that process doesn't care what the topology is doing - if it was 700000 triangles that would be fine as long as it was a contiguous closed mesh. The problem arises because you are trying to use SDS to get the smoothness into the model, so unfortunately you need to follow the much stricter rules for that regardless, then only at the very end APPLY your subdivision, and triangulate for printing.

 

CBR

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Thank you, for your answear! It is ONLY for printing, so in that case do you think I could somehow still use the left one? I will look into the HB Modelling bundle definitely.

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6 hours ago, hayley said:

Thank you, for your answer! It is ONLY for printing, so in that case do you think I could somehow still use the left one? I will look into the HB Modelling bundle definitely.

 

Depends on what the final model should look like - is that something you would paint afterwards, or do you need to get the colours into the model ?

 

CBR

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Yes I will paint it and etc afterwards. I just need "plain" model which I would than posprocess.  

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Ok, so do you even need mask details modelled in rather than painted on ? That'll be the key question...

How big is this model ?

 

CBR

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5 hours ago, Cerbera said:

Ok, so do you even need mask details modelled in rather than painted on ? That'll be the key question...

How big is this model ?

 

CBR

I shouldn´t have said plain 😅 sorry.... well I need the details so it is more realistic looking 😞 thats the problem, the model without detail looked decent with subdivision even though the geometry is horrible. The size of this model is enough to fit my head, so I can wear it, about 17cm wide amd 20 cm long

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Oh sh*t that's massive ! 🙂 Ok right then yes you do need to model in that detail !

I can give you some useful pointers about that if I get some time later..

 

CBR

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11 hours ago, Cerbera said:

Oh sh*t that's massive ! 🙂 Ok right then yes you do need to model in that detail !

I can give you some useful pointers about that if I get some time later..

 

CBR

Yes! It has to look goof 😄  Thank you!! I really appreciate your time.

 

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OK, we need to pin down what sort of level we're aiming for. Because the movie version of this is astonishingly detailed, and the sort of project that even someone with many years modelling experience would find challenging to do with SDS and you would need to throw quite significant amounts of time at this before it started looking decent.

 

blackpanther4.thumb.jpg.ae147d04cd70dee4a225029824a23c03.jpg

 

Now, if I was building this as 3D model I would do it as the parts are in the real world - lots of separate panels (models) glued to a much simpler under-surface, but you don't have that luxury when you are printing it, because you need a single contiguous mesh, unless you are prepared to print all the panels and the under-mask and then glue them together in the real world ! So that is a bit of a mammoth undertaking, and unless you are something of a 'god-grade' modeller then Cinema is perhaps not the ideal place to make this, and you should maybe look at Z-brush, in which you'd also need some fairly top skills, but I would say that it is easier and quicker there than doing with a non-sculpt workflow.

 

OR you could find a simpler version of it, like this one, also from the movie, but a simpler live-action prop with a lot of the detail missing, which is a lot more achievable in Cinema using modelling...

 

1325600760_bpsimpler.thumb.jpg.743c636136e9475260108bd7e7db9a80.jpg

 

I think it is possible that we could use your existing mesh as a sort of base for this new one.

 

CBR

 

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