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    • it does drop on mine after it finishes. the motor disengages and drop. I will keep an eye on it though but hope for the best.    the model was scaled down as i wanted a quick test print. without a part cooling fan i am not suprised by the finish.   just learnt all about supports, brims, skirts and rafts for future tests
    • Awsome thanks, its really an issue this one.
    • Did you scale the model yourself before printing?  I've come across similar problems and it's come down to a scaling issue!   I would keep an eye on the bed dropping, we were told the same thing by the manufacturer.  They provided me with an edited version of the g-code when I collected the printer from them after it had been in for repairs, and it still did it.  It also dropped right at the very end of the print when it had finished, in stead of it slowly lowering the platform it would just drop as if someone let go of it!
    • Hi   I dont use Daz Figures so can only come at it from my own custom made characters.  The first issue I see in your workflow is its kind of backwards in that the sculpting should be  done before rigging, and Uv mapping, but your using a pre made figure.    Now this dont mean that will stop you, but you have to go a different way about it.  You would not try to sub d for sculpting the rigged character, but a copy of the mesh this id only do for higher frequency details.  The sculpting is for what, slight morph changes such as facial animation, detail work, or a full sculpt over for permanent change as the base.  If your sculpting base level changes then there is no need to sub devide the mesh at all, so you add a Pose morph and record this sculpting into a layer, you can then bake that down if you choose but it wont effect the rigged character.   If your wanting to add detail then work on a copy the character sculpt with sub d levels then bake it into a normal map.   Clothes wise you need to be more specific what you want to do with these, and what kind of clothes your making.  Now the only other issue Im thinking for you is Daz uses selection tags because the Uvs overlap, Im not shure you go about this as I dont have Uvs like that, I use single texture space for each map, or UDIMS for Vray which is not supported native in C4D which is crazy.  There are a few members here that do use DAZ figures so Im sure they will chime in.  Also I do not use C4D for higher detail sculpting just base level sculpting, Zbrush is my go to app.   Dan
    • @DanLSK basically yes.    With the CR-10 the bed is adjusted manually with knobs underneath to get it as level as possible.  You use a feeler gauge or piece of A4 paper between the bed and the nozzle and adjust the knobs until you get a small amount friction when moving the paper around.  When you get that at roughly 5 - 9 points around the bed you know it's pretty much level.   When you have the bed levelling kit installed, you have a sensor attached next to the nozzle which reads the distance between it and the bed and adjusts accordingly.  In theory you could have 5mm difference from one corner to the other and it would still print level, but in reality you'd only be dealing with something like 0.1 - 0.5mm difference.
    • @TheJimReaper Lot of good info, thank you!   About the auto leveling device, Is that basically taking in consideration of bed not being 100% level and adjusting its x y z movement while printing? I'm assuming the bed must be adjusted manually to nearest perfection as possible and then you can run the auto level for it to figure out the rest.        
    • Not sure I'd use the term expert, lol   The CR-10 would definitely print these.  If you print them at the 6inch height you mentioned earlier the thin arms and legs maybe a little weak, but with the right supports in place it shouldn't be a problem.  This owl is one of the first things I printed whilst I was still playing with different settings, the little wire bits are about 1.5mm in diameter and they are solid, but they're also close together which helps.  If you want to know for definite, send one of the models over and I'll print it out for you.
    • Ordering other things along with the printer depends on what you get with the printer.  The CR-10 came with a mini tool kit containing a scrapper, screwdriver, a few allen keys, wire snips, and zip ties.  The only addition thing I bought for it was an auto bed levelling kit, and some PEI.  For bed adhesion I use PEI as all you need to do is give it a wipe every couple of prints with nail varnish remover. I've only used 1 sheet of it so far and I've been printing almost every day for the last 3 months and it's still as good as new.  A lot of people use masking tape on the bed, in which case I'd buy a ton of it as you have to change it almost every print and you struggle with the filament sticking to it so you'll need either hairspray or glue sticks as well.   Software wise, you should get everything you need to get you started.  I think it was on Simmy's post about him ordering the Colido Compact printer that I mentioned slicer programmes.  There's 2 versions of Cura (15.04.6 and 3.0.2) I don't know why there's 2 versions, they're both free and both by Ultimaker.  There's also Slic3r and Repetier-Host, again both free. Then there's Simplify3D which is $149.  I've got both the Cura slicers and Simplify3D.  Cura 15.04.6 gives you better control over the printer when you're connected to the printer via usb.  Cura 3.0.2 and gives you more control when it comes to settings and Simplify3Dgives you even more control and has a more user friendly interface.  I find I flick back and forth better Cura 3.0.2 and Simplify3D as I find one can slice a model better than the other.  All the slicers are Mac compatible and all except .stl and .obj  
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