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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/07/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    No I couldn't find it (and now seem to remember I couldn't last time this was asked either !) so maybe those keywords are no good after all. So made you a quick setup that demonstrates the main principles involved. The essential stages are as follows: 1. Get 2 plane Primitives, one of which will have 1 x 1 segments and represent the wall behind the paint, and another with much more subdivision, raised mm above it, to represent the paint layer. 2. The paint plane needs to be editable, then you need to select some randomish points on it with any of the selection tools like in my example. The density of those points will define how small the paint flakes are, so if you want loads of smaller ones you need quite a dense point field. 3. A cloth tag is added to the paint plane, and in the Dresser Tab, we call the points selection we made earlier and Fix points on those, which will turn them pink. 4. In that cloth tag we need to set gravity to about +5, and activate Use Tear in the main cloth tab, and set a suitable value, which will be between 101 and 150%. 5. None of this will work unless your paint plane is a child of a Cloth Surface, which has actual thickness, so add a mm or 2 here, but not any additional subdivision unless you need more detail in the tears. 6. Lastly the cloth surface goes under regular SDS (but only Level 1 or 2 max) which rounds everything off, and should give you a result vaguely like mine below... The last stage is all experimentation where you vary all the settings in the tag, and change the number of fixed points to get more specifically the look you want... one of the most important settings to get that sort of ethereal ghostly feel is drag. So here we are using positive gravity alone to wrench the cloth upwards, which is fine for test purposes, but not actually what we want if your walls are vertical. So in that case, and assuming your setup is now facing a direction other than Y=up, gravity should be set to a low negative value, and you should force the tearing another way, like with wind (either in the cloth tag itself or more controllably via particle forces), and then just let gravity and drag float it all downwards. Hope that helps CBR
  2. 2 points
    Please take care to post in the correct category, which is not General Discussions if it's a question. Yep, there is an established technique to do this with pinned points and cloth tearing, and someone has already made a video about it. I just gotta find it now I think the keywords we need are 'c4d peeling paint'. It has also been asked / referenced a few times before on the cafe, so searching here might also help. CBR
  3. 1 point
    Hello, I am wondering for how much would someone be willing to model\sculpt a person, a girl via reference pictures. The model does not have to be super realistic, maybe even a bit stylized but has to be recognizable. The end goal is to have this model 3D printed and hand painted. So if you are someone who is interested please show me some of your work and maybe an estimated price for the finished model, no texturing needed... I we strike a deal I will send you a lot of pictures of the person for reference.
  4. 1 point
    Hello, I am looking for anyone who has a version of Cinema 4D Studio that I could purchase from them. I'm looking for any version R10 and up. I have no set price at the moment, so please feel free to contact me. Thank you. -Toby E-Mail: tobygdavis@hotmail.com
  5. 1 point
    Just checking you have tried stick texture tag. My hopes aren't high that it will work, but we should at least try to make sure it doesn't... CBR
  6. 1 point
    Pyro is much underrated..I did this 20 years ago when i was learning it
  7. 1 point
    Here is something I did with pyro..scene file available
  8. 1 point
    Something Something about these 80s / 90s 3D-animations is just haunting to me. They way everything looks and moves and sounds just... gives me the creeps. That said: Them raytraced reflections at 03:06 though!
  9. 1 point
    This is something I should know the answer to, but to my surprise, don't ! So I will add myself to the list of grateful people when someone tells us the answer ! Nice one @bezo CBR
  10. 1 point
    With Shift select (one by one) all parameters in grouped HUD, then (with still holding Shift) click on new item, press right click and select "Make Group" Position inside group you can adjust with holding Ctrl and move...
  11. 1 point
    If only anything Carpenter Brut made came close to this song I love it everytime it comes up, but the rest just pales in comparison.
  12. 1 point
    As soon as you add points to an object that already has a UV, you will break that existing UV, so all of that stage has to be done again now. If that object used a bitmap texture, then you would also need to add graphics for the new polys you added to that existing texture, and then realign / re-organise the UV space to take your additions into account and make the new UVs line up with your newly edited bitmap texture. However, in the case of something as simple as a petal I would imagine that you don't need 3 separate UV islands (front / back / rim) within the main map - you still need 2 (front / back) but now one of those islands should also encompass the new side/rim polys as well. So if that is the case, we can redo those UVs very easily with just 1 UV seam, and simple Frontal Projection to give you the lslands you need. If you get that right you probably won't even need to edit the original image - just slightly scale down either the front or back UVs so that the new rim polys also fit within the area previously describing only the front. Here's an example (higher poly than yours) that shows how those polys should be seamed and laid out... 1. Define your UV seam / edge selection as follows... Then go into UV edit layout, select the front and rim polys only, and do a frontal projection from an orthographic viewport, followed by a relax so that the rim polys become an extension of the front ones. Then do the same for the remaining back polys, and arrange both the UV islands over the existing image you can load into the UV Edit's UV window, This should give you a result broadly like below... So now you can see the rim polys are part of the front face UV island, and once that front face has been aligned and scaled down slightly to match your bitmap, should give you the result you need. CBR
  13. 1 point
    Alright, I'll chime in with a good mix of stuff
  14. 1 point
    Thanks. Ticket sent earlier. If/when I get a response I'll let you know. Thanks for your willingness to help. I do appreciate it!
  15. 1 point
    This thread is living proof of the corona virus driving people insane.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    I found out who's got all the bog roll now we just need to find out who's got all the pasta
  18. 1 point
    For referencing I´m using Kuadro for many years... http://kruelgames.com/tools/kuadro/
  19. 1 point
    Hey everybody! Recently I found this little but very helpful tool called PureRef. You can pay for it if you want, but it's generally free. It allows you display multiple reference pictures in a small standalone window as well as move, rotate and scale them freely. You can even set up a transparency and have them always on top of C4D for example. You can also just drag and drop images out of your webbrowser into the software! No more fiddly saving first!
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