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  1. 4 points
    Honestly, as much as I used to prefer OSX, once I started focusing on 3D, it became clear to me I was going to have to switch over to windows. Not because of the OS but because of the hardware. Apple simply does not make pro hardware anymore. Their computers are overpriced and underspec’d in pretty much every way. I eventually built a very fast, main 3D PC for the price of a mediocre Mac. And windows doesn’t bother me as much anymore. All the adobe stuff works just fine on windows too. If you need mobility, there are a handful of great PC offerings. Razer makes the most “Mac-like” PC laptops. All that said, I get it. It’s hard to switch. If you are hard set on a Mac, just go for it. But just be aware of the limitations you’ll be running into. Good luck!
  2. 4 points
    For download I discovered from these guys: http://www.3dart.it/en/category/download/ Check them out, most of the are 4K, also a lot of good HDRI's.
  3. 3 points
    For the hands you can use my setup fk controls script from cineversity. Youd select the joints u want control over and then run the script(select them in proper hierarchy order). It doesnt give you sliders but controllers instead. That is my preferred method for fingers at least. I am slowly trying to work on a mixamo control rig template. I just have trouble finding the time to get it to completion. But be on the lookout for it on cineversity Hopefully in 2018. Also working on a plugin that will let you transfer mixamo weights that way if you already had a rig but wanted mixamo to auto weigjt it you could easily transfer it to your rig
  4. 3 points
    Here is a quick update on the project!
  5. 2 points
    So, in addition to my daily work (most of which I'm still not able to show), I do a bunch of personal R&D as a skill-building exercise. I tend to approach it as series of 3 - 6 pieces, before I move on to new ideas or themes. Here are a few favorites from each. All rendered with Redshift, except for the Smudjula ones which were done with Cycles4D. Let's start with some stills! FRACTAE Series: WHOOPS Series: UNNATURAL Series: SMUDJULA Series:
  6. 2 points
    I wouldnt replace one with the other, they just have different usages, and you wont get more realistic than Mocap. Purly as an experiment, if you applied a Mocap from Mixamo, would you be happy with thoes results, is that what you wish to attain as close as possible via hand key framed animation? The time frame to get that good, and make your own animation is a long term challenge for sure, but posible if you dedicate your time to just that. Kinect for Xbox is what some use, but I guess what your after is to gain the skills to be a animator, so Animation School will get you there quicker, I guess only you know to what goal your aiming for in the long run, serious hobbie, or to be a commercial animator, and for that you can use a pre made rigged character, but you seem to be wanting to do both the technical rigging and animation so id get the best training. Gnomon has good training, but your find most high end training will use Maya, although it translates to some degree. Iv only ever done rigging to get me by, basic stuff some in Messiah Studio ,XSI, Max, MODO, and C4D. The more I delved in, the more complex it got and that was just rigging. I think just the riggin side alone can take some time to learn, and if your a quick learner and have loads of time on your hands you may be able to do both rigging and animation. If I was to take on both to a high level I wouldnt waste my time with learning bits a peices scattered all over the internet, id go with a place like this. http://www.animschool.com Its good to be a jack of all trades (Generalist), but not if it hinders your chances to be a master at at least one speciality you love. Id first learn all of Bret Bays training down to the point you can remember it all and rig anything. A keen knowledge of human and animal anatomy is needed for realistic animations, for humans check out Pose Space, they have a video set on articulation of all joints, if you ask them they do all sets at a discount. Pose, Form, and anatomy is needed. Dan
  7. 2 points
    You can hve that extra knee joint in there. Thats fine. It just seems like ur ik chan goes to the toes rather than to the ankle maybe. I usually treat the foot and toes separate from the leg ik.
  8. 2 points
  9. 2 points
    If you are using cracked software you should be ashamed of yourself. There's simply no excuse with amazing free software like Blender and cheap alternatives to AE and PS. Frankly, I hope you get some malware.
  10. 2 points
    Welcome to the club You've got a slightly different version of the CR-10 to me. Mine didn't come with the dual z or filament detector upgrades, as they weren't added to the cr-10 until after I bought mine. The good thing about Creality is that they are slowly taking on board what the users are adding to their printers and then making them part of the CR-10 that they sell. Just a small word of warning! Don't believe the set up time of 10-20mins it took me about 45mins to get mine set up! There's a fantastic Facebook group just for CR-10 owners, who will help you with anything and everything. You can find it HERE Some of the first things you're going to want to print off are: Filament Guide with having the filament detector I don't know if you'll need this, but the filament rubs against one of the z-axis lead screws which can make the filament greasy. This guide pulls the filament away from the lead screw, stopping that problem. Duct Fan Mod This basically help to direct the air flow on to the filament, which in turn gives you a better finish. Bed levelling knob The knobs under the bed aren't very big and a bit awkward to get to, so everyone prints these out to make life a little easier! Strain relief bracket The cable going to the bed can sometimes get a little strained which can break the wire connection. This bracket strengthens that connection. There is a ton of other bits you can print out to help, but these are the basic ones to get you started. I found that when it came to bed levelling I was adjusting it ever 3 or 4 prints, so I went and bought myself an Auto bed levelling kit, and now I check it once a month just to make sure everything is ok. Personally I wouldn't bother using the masking tape that comes with it, as you'll probably need to use hairspray or a glue stick to help with adhesion. A lot of users print straight onto the glass, or replace the glass with a mirror. Ikea sell one that's 300 x 300mm, I think it's the lack range! But from what I've heard I still think you have to use hairspray with it! If you read Simmy's thread you'll see I suggested PEI. You can get some off Ebay or Amazon. I got 2 sheets for £25. With the pei you don't need anything extra, you just need to keep it clean with nail polish remover. There's a load of great sites for free models, Thingiverse is probably the main one. Then you have MyMiniFactory, another great site which have regular competitions where you can with merchandise and 3D printers. Yeggi is another great site, it's basically a search engine for printable 3D models. I get all my filament of ebay. I get the cheap stuff for testing out prints and then the better stuff for final prints. The cheap stuff cost just over £10 for 1kg of filament. Depending on which brand of the better filament you get it can cost you anything between £20 and £50 for 1kg. In all honesty there's not much of a difference between the cheap and the more expensive except you get a slightly better finish. I think I've pretty much covered the basics, but if I think of anything else I'll let you know and if you've got any questions feel free to message me. How long have you got to wait for delivery? The waiting drove me mad!!
  11. 2 points
    I have a studio full of Macs, from Mac Pros, iMacs and MBPs but I recently bought a PC solely for 3D work and wouldn't recommend anything else. Most of my Mac software is cross platform works exactly the same on the PC so it's a doddle get up and running. While I prefer MacOS to Windows 10 I absolutely prefer the PC hardware for 3D work over any Apple hardware, the bang for buck and shear choice of components heavily favour the PC and that make for sense to me from a business point of view. To Microsoft's credit Windows 10 is a pleasant experience now and it's just not the deal breaker it used to be. I thought I was going to hate it but I don't. There are plenty of Windows laptops with fantastic styling and specifications at price that will leave you extra cash for eGPUs that will be important when you discover Redshift. Once you discover Redshift you'll be kicking yourself you didn't get a PC laptop with a decent nVidia GPU in it and eGPU. You are wasting your time and money running Arnold on a laptop especially a Mac laptop. I wouldn't do rendering on a MacBook Pro or an iMac I just don't think the cooling is up to dealing with extended periods of full CPU load. I must admit I've become a bit disenchanted with Apple, the Pro level computers are a joke and now ridiculously priced and there's no Mac Pro worth buying. I'll certainly be replacing all our Macs with PCs when they come to their EOL and if someone had said that to me a couple of years ago I would've said they were mad. When I go to a coffee shop every Tom, Dick and twat has a MacBook so I think whipping out a decent PC laptop would be a statement of rebellion against the sheep mentality.
  12. 2 points
    Amen - the greatest success of Apple was the 'think different' campaign in the '90's which brainwashed a generation into thinking that windows was ugly. Seems like the best way to actually think different now is to do what @nerv says.
  13. 2 points
    First of the Redshift for Cinema 4D videos on their Youtube channel . Thanks @merkvilson
  14. 1 point
    NoneCG - maker of very realistic models of cities, etc. They are high priced but the detail is exquisite. 50% off between 11/24 and 11/27. My personal C4D favorite is found here.
  15. 1 point
    I'D just like to take this opportunity to wish my dear friend, 3D Jedi and over all top geezer Sebastian aka the freshest ever @everfresh a very happy birthday today, remember age is just a number:) I'd really appreciate it, and i know he would as well, if everyone could join, in posting their celebratory birthday messages here, you can also do it via personal message which i encourage everyone to do twice! Have a great day buddy have some cake and a beer on me, love and best wishes, your Vecs
  16. 1 point
    No, the control loops are the really close ones running top to bottom of your pic - the ones you probably made by bevelling edges. It is those that are controlling how tight your creases are, so if you want to make that transition softer move the outer edge loops slightly further away from the center ones. CBR
  17. 1 point
    Mini after work project tonight. Design and print a product for the home... Brief was to design a hook for the shower screen. Designed in c4d of course sent to the printer via slicer Once finished remove from printer And it's ready to use
  18. 1 point
    Here's an example of the other method, using bend deformer... bend lofting.c4d CBR
  19. 1 point
    Hello, and welcome to the cafe. You are right, lofting in Cinema is very different to Solidworks. You have 2 options I think... 1. Make the loft straight (ie not following any curve) initially, but then make sure it has adequate segmentation along its length (in loft properties, to support deformation), and put it in a null with a bend deformer to make it go round the corner... 2. You can clone your start and end profiles onto the arc spline, using cloner's blend mode to get intermediate copies along the spline. Then you can drop the live cloner under the loft, and you should get a good start on what you want. Hang on - I'll make you a little example of that. CBR
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    I wondered the same thing. I wasn't crazy about cycles4d and don't want to spend the money on it just to render explosiafx and of course the standard renderer, meh. I use octane but am leaning toward redshift. I really hope it works with one of those.
  22. 1 point
    I just got this email : Red Giants Year-End SALE ! Fantasizing about all of the great stuff you will buy on December 5th at 40% off is highly encouraged. Full licenses Upgrades Full Suites Individual products Academic store (which is already 50% off) 40% off everything 24 Hours Only! Sale Starts: 12/5/17 at 08:00 AM PST. Sales ends: 12/6/17 at 08:00 AM PST https://www.redgiant.com/blog/2017/11/21/yes-a/
  23. 1 point
    That is correct - it only shows the footage in the solved camera. Auto tracking the footage is just the first step. You need to do a whole load of other stuff next to set the scene up so you can see what is going on in all the views. This video by cafe luminary @Beefdoctor is very thorough in showing you what the next steps are... When everything is setup properly you will see the scene camera moving through a track point 'cloud' based on your footage, which is usually enough to be able to see the layout of the scene, to the extent where you can place your 3D objects into it with reasonable accuracy (after which you can tweak positioning further in the solved camera). In R19 things improve because now we can generate actual geometry from the footage, which makes positioning stuff correspondingly clearer. CBR
  24. 1 point
    Our New Release Sneak Peek videos have raised lots of questions amongst our users. We are working our way through them, if you visit http://insydium.uk/x-particles-4-pricing-faqs/ you will find various answers to users questions in one centralised place. Please bear with us, if your specific question has not been addressed, we will answer what we can and keep updating this page up until release. Thank you
  25. 1 point
    Hello FolksHere are some ProRender quicktips. Some are basic GPU Pathtracer workflow topics, others are prorender c4d related:1. Dont use the color channel within shaders. instead use the pbr material where all shading happens within the reflectance channel. other effects like luminance and bump can still happen outside of the reflectance channel. Why ? this leads to less noise in your images. Thus faster rendering.2. Smaller Iteration Refresh Intervals lead to longer render times and vice versa in the OFFLINE Picture Viewer / Final Result Render. So if you want to have a faster render time in the Picture Vieweruse bigger values. Or use the option Never3. dont use small light sources ( hard to calculate for a pathtracer and creates hotpixels )4. the renderer is best suited for an exterior scenes or common scene with a sky like product visualization scenes. indoors are slower but can be made faster by using GI Portals on windows ( Option in the Shader ).5. prorender supports the compositing tag partly ( no inclusions or exclusions )6. the firefly threshold kills hotpixels, but also looses detail when set too sensitive. Lower = more sensitive.7. Radiance clamp clamps the brightest allowed pixels in your scene of all sources. prevents some hotpixels.8. adjust the ray epsilon value accordingly to the scale of your scene. 1 mm can be too big for still life pictures where for examplea glass has a contact with the table.9. more than 1 gpu for the viewport preview can be slower. So try to use only the recommended one.10. AA samples influences render speed a lot. In many cases even the most.11. big textures / hdrs can quickly fill up your vram thus this would lead to an error and the scene wont render.This is of course hardware dependant.12. dont use perfect sharp reflections. give always a little bit of roughness ( prevents hotpixels )13. dont make lights or luminance planes too bright if u dont need to. instead play with their size.14. dont use too low tessellation for your geometry otherwise shading will have artefacts.15. tonemapping works only if 32 bit is turned on in the output settings. Its also working with the Live Preview in the Viewport16. The Exposure and Shutter Speed is set in the Tone Mapping Photo Linear, not in the Camera itself !17. Camera DOF is controlled in the Camera by FSTOP18. The most usefull tonemappnig modes are Photo Linear and Reinhard19. make sure your geometry has correct facing normals. prorender is sensitive to this.20. for realism try always to use IES or Area lights. Especialyl the PBR Light which is a modificated Area Light.21. Some Shaders are baked for ProRenderer others are GPU Native calculated like the Gradient Shader or Noise Shader22. The noise shader in the Bump Channel is also baked23. you control the resolution of shaders through the Default Texture Resolution Values in the Render settings or within each shader with an override ( shader baking )24. you can force a shader baking native gpu computed shaders like gradients by putting it into a shader like Layer Shader25. to match the ogl viewport with prorender you need:- display mode Gouraud Shading ( Displays Area light Reflections ) or Quick Shading- a sky object with a shader on it - if you need light use the pbr light26. ProRender supports the most widely used Sphericla Camera modes.27. Options that Prorender doesnt support will be grayed out.cheers
  26. 1 point
    And because one free on-line normal map converter is never enough: http://cpetry.github.io/NormalMap-Online/
  27. 1 point
    Episode 8 - xpExplosiaFX Part 1, X-Particles 4 - Release 5th December xpExplosiaFX brings you remarkable, realistic smoke and fire simulation capabilities inside X-Particles 4. With an abundance of settings to play with, you have unparalleled control of your scene. For more information about X-Particles 4, please visit http://insydium.com/x-particles-4-new-features/
  28. 1 point
    It can can print ABS, along with Wood, Nylon, Carbon Fiber, TPU, PETG, and I think there's a couple of other types as well. But as @DanLSK mentioned it can reach those temps to print the filaments that require higher temperature, but it can struggle to retain them because it's open. This is why a lot of people build enclosures for them. A lot of people are moving away from printing with ABS because of the smell it creates when printing! It's not very nice and if your not in a well ventilated area it can stink the room out!
  29. 1 point
    @DanLSK basically yes. With the CR-10 the bed is adjusted manually with knobs underneath to get it as level as possible. You use a feeler gauge or piece of A4 paper between the bed and the nozzle and adjust the knobs until you get a small amount friction when moving the paper around. When you get that at roughly 5 - 9 points around the bed you know it's pretty much level. When you have the bed levelling kit installed, you have a sensor attached next to the nozzle which reads the distance between it and the bed and adjusts accordingly. In theory you could have 5mm difference from one corner to the other and it would still print level, but in reality you'd only be dealing with something like 0.1 - 0.5mm difference.
  30. 1 point
    thanks man... you always know :)
  31. 1 point
    Stupid doesn't begin to describe the cost-benefit analysis of the iMac Pro. Easily the biggest ripoff Apple has ever offered, including the trash can. That's assuming they keep the $5K base tag. Normally they don't announce pricing many months in advance of a launch so it's possible they were seeing the reaction / what they could get away with. But if it's anything close to that as a base price. Awful. There's no other word for it.
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point

    From the album somenerv - Redshift R&D

    © Nate Rodriguez-Vera

  34. 1 point
    Also Arnold is an option.
  35. 1 point
    So this morning i started to block out the model of the White House after spending an hour or so gathering reference materials. It does not help that i am full of flu mind but i am soldiering on with a dripping nose! Started modeling the large light that hangs from the entrance of the White House. The President’s Front Door! Added around 1830, the North Portico was added to the White House, in keeping with the Federal Style and the original designs for the building. During the late Victorian era, Louis C Tiffany installed Tiffany glass in the windows, as he had throughout the house, later removed in the 1902 renovation. I will add the glass current glass door but for now i wanted to add the original doors.
  36. 1 point
    How to Setup Adobe Fuse Characters - Redshift:
  37. 1 point
    Here is a very basic set up for finger curl. I first created a controler spline circle, and constrained that to the hand so it always follows the hand. I then rotated the spline to see what axis its rotating in the Coords. Then right clicked on the rotation letter next to the rotation value and choose from menu Expressions/ Set Driver. I then selected all 3 joints for the finger and right clicked on the rotation letter in the Coords, and went to same menu but set as driven Relative. Now when you rotate the controler and you have a finger curl. To take this click on the hand controler and add user data with a new group and data. I made a slider to control degree from 0 to 80 degree. I then make this slider to drive the spline controler. You can do this for each finger and then make a single slider to be a driver of all fingers to form a fist. This gives you a idea to start with. In file select Index-Curl and from menu choose User Data If its hard to follow I can make a video. The area of rigging is not my speciality, but it may get you on to the next level. One day when I get very proficient at rigging I will make a whole rigging video, but till then I hope someone does one before I get to it. Dan Hand rig example.c4d Hand rig examplev2.c4d
  38. 1 point
    Hi From my limited knowledge in how the character tool works, its modular in a way that its hierarchical structure cant just be pulled apart such as borrow the hands for another rig. Now if your somewhat of a expert and can trace all constraints, controllers, and espresso that belong to, for instance just the hands may be possible, but not even I would bother past copying the bones and maybe the controllers. It would be faster to just add either pose morphs, or ik for the fingers. Id say its worth investing some time learning how to use the user data functions such as keeping all sliders which drive morphs in one place. The character tool is made by experts, and its very complex for the average user to build. Iv built basic rigs from scratch with controlers, 2d vectors, basic user data usage and useing expresso for drivers, but thats it. I would recommend watching all of Cinevercity rigging videos done by Brett Bays.
  39. 1 point
    Sounds like your off to a good start. I don't know how much you know about the settings used when slicing the models, but I'll give you some pointers which will hopefully help. What slicer are you using? If I remember correctly the Colido comes with Cura 14. something? There's now an update for that to Cura 15.04. There's also a different version of Cura which is Cura 3.0.2. I don't know why there's 2 versions as they're both free and both by Ultimaker! As far as slicers go there's Cura 15.04, Cura 3.0.2, Slic3r, and RepeteirHost which are free. Then there is Simplify3D which is £113. There are others, but these are the top ones. For slicing Cura 15, Slic3r and RepetierHost I would say are adequate when you first start out. However both Cura 15 and RepetierHost give you better control of the printer itself than the others. Cura 3.0.2 is more advanced, it gives you a lot more control over how the model is sliced. Then you have Simplify3D which is slightly more advanced again with a better user interface. I've use Cura 15 for when I need to control the printer when connected via usb, this allows me to move the bed and nozzle, heat either or the bed and nozzle. I can also send various commands which controls certain things whilst it's printing. And then I use Simplify 3D as I get a lot more control over how the models are sliced and I can alter the gcode if I need to. I would suggest printing from the sd card, for the simple reason that if your computer goes down for any reason your printer will carry on, but as the Colido doesn't have a screen I'm not sure how that would work! Unless you start the print from your computer and then disconnect? Anything more than a 45° - 50° angle usually require supports. I say usually because on some printers you can bridge a gap, so you can go to a 90° angle without supports. I don't know how good the Colido will be at bridging, it's not something I tried. It also depends heavily on what cooling fans you have and how the airflow is directed. Stringing happens when the nozzle moves from one point to another without printing in between. If you don't retract the filament enough you get strings between the two parts, but if you retract to much it can miss a bit when it starts printing again. I've got mine set at retraction 7.5mm at a speed of 1800mm/min and with that I have no problems. Prints lifting off the bed and moving is down to bed adhesion. I used cheap hairspray when I was using the Colido, but glue sticks also help. I'm currently using PEI, it's amazing stuff. I got 2 300 x 300 sheets for £25, it sounds expensive!, but I've only used 1 sheets so far and have done around 75+ prints on it and it's still going strong. You can even dig a scraper in to it with out affecting it's performance. All you have to do is wipe it over with nail polish remover every couple of prints! With the size of the Colido's bed you should get a few pieces out of 1 piece. The only problem I see is I don't know how well it will work on a none heated bed! Hope this helps. Have fun over the weekend. Jim
  40. 1 point
    Select spline, set intermediate points to Uniform, number set to zero. Then apply command Current state to object. Delete old one. Your spline has 10 segments btw, so select single point, press U~W (select connected), move spline segment to other place and remove all small spline segments. Your spline is still linear in result, if needed smoothed spline set intermediate points to cubic for instance...
  41. 1 point
    @digitvisions and @everfresh thanks for the likes. I've jazzed up the 1st legoman so he has a hammer to whack the mole - here's the scene + code, if anyone wants to have a look - there's comments https://www.dropbox.com/s/tin82tjylbd35li/legomanmole.zip?dl=1 The Python clocks through some hidden placeholders that the mole jumps to when whacked, then a targeted null detects the angle to the mole, turns the vehicle accordingly and legoman sets off to get him. There's also a bit of camera target smoothing, and autozoom. Still WIP.
  42. 1 point
    Wow Nigel, of course, I knew you were a Dare Devil Biker Deluxe!! But congratulations on the jump up to the Master's Level in National races. You have to be very proud! I am proud of you for starters. You have some very good help in here and shame on me for getting so involved in work and medical that it's been so long since I came in. But I will try and do better! I have the boxing trunks modeled and in Marvelous Designer I found the ability to "drape" an item of clothing so it fits perfectly. I LOVE that! However, when I export it a ss an .obj garment or FBX, I get an error back in trying to load it in C4D. Something about the file being empty or not the proper sort of .obj. Grrrr. I won't give up though! The shoes.... well, I like to be barefooted, so it seems I should have my guys barefooted too. And it helps when you are at the beach. :-) Here are the trunks and then a pic of my hot cycle. Due to the accident, it looks like this will be it. While that can be a sad thing for me at times, this hot rod will at least get me outside and down the road with racing stripes and a cool outfit. It arrives next Tuesday and is top of the line seemingly with the ability to do so much for you. Okay that subject is closed. LOL I'll show you a pic below of what I think is very close to the one coming. I will come back and post a pic of mine after it arrives. We moved to the wilds about 5 months aqgo...near natural Natural spring. It's protected and has many miles all around us (no neighbors for miles) and tons of lakes, some just 5-10 minutes away. So it will be a thrill to get my "cycle" out there and boogie!! Glad you are having fun with Modo. I can't afford it or I would have it too. From what I see, it is awesome in it's ability to do just about anything. Later, Gator.. (we have those too!) LOL Texture work needed still by adding a silky shine to the trunks, and a logo and some sporty decoration.
  43. 1 point
    Class 19 - Rubik cube - part 2 (final) Summary: Building an interactive Rubik cube with viewport controls and visual feedback using MoGraph, Xpresso and Python Duration: 24 min File size: 185 MB
  44. 1 point
    In my experience Octane has been far and away the fastest engine in terms of it's responsiveness. It will however eat all of your vram much faster than other engines. Even the most stable version is remarkably unstable. Will crash or stall mid-render, so make sure you're able to monitor long animation renders. 1 plugin license + 1 standalone license required - can get expensive. Prorender - I would say stay away for at least another year - it's lacking in some of the most basic features you'd take for granted in other engines. Thea - no idea, never used it. Cycles - in my limited testing seems pretty good, it has the massive advantage of being able to use CPU. So if you need to, you can lookdev on GPU then scale up to farm when final renders are required. When I last tested it with large amounts of CAD data it choked quite comprehensively, but I suspect that it's probably much more stable now. Tightly integrated with xparticles, if that's your bag. Redshift is the winner for me. Fast, uses terminology from other biased engines, ability to include/exclude lights/objects arbitrarily. Won't die if you run out of vram, although it will of course go much slower. Still pretty quick for lookdev. Most recent version (2.5.43) is very stable. When you buy a license it works on any supported DCC app, so your C4D license will also work with your Modo/Maya/Max install too. F
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    I would go with Redshift as well but then I'm slightly biased ;) All the things @everfresh said is true but I would recommend doing a little research (read that link). GPU render speeds change slightly depending on what it is you are rendering exactly, some renderers handle things better than others. Good luck!
  47. 1 point
    And then some video... SHRBT Series: PXLFLW Series:
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    :) From my experience with C4D, it does not make sense to care too much about non-destructive modelling unless you really need it (eg. for animation). You may loose a lot of time thinking how to make one simple object "procedural" while in the same time you could model whole scene. When I think I'll need to go back, I keep procedural version before baking it to polygons ( I just hide it), and I also save scene at key moments with a new number. I such way, if I mess something with a model, I can go back. Also C4D offers numerous undo steps. When working like this, I almost never have any issues that I have "lost" something, and I need to spent lot of time reworking it. It is faster to just focus on what you need instead of inventing convoluted ways to make it "non-destructive" For a while I modelled in Softimage - it uses Operator Stack which allows you to go back and correct an operation. But in reality I almost never used it. Rather I had some issues related to stack growing to big and having to purge it . http://docs.autodesk.com/SI/2015/ENU/#!/url=./files/basic_mod_OperatorStack.htm I also did a lot of fully procedural modeling of plants in TPF (http://greengene.republika.pl/3D_SOFTWARE/1_aaa.htm) But this is very complex, and when your graph becomes huge and convoluted, whole process becomes quite slow. If you want non destructive modelig you need different software - like Houdini. I am rather a fan of Vitaly Bulgarov approach to modelling - He uses very efficiently just a few simple tools but can create complex stuff very quickly : check his video - he made whole complex model of a robot in one day. https://blog.keyshot.com/vitaly-bulgarov-black-phoenix-project
  50. 1 point
    I just finished a little ident rendered in Redshift, all 4k and my render times were super quick. Love redshift!