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DanLSK

Regular Member
  • Content count

    147
  • Joined

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43 Noble Beginner

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Daniel
  • Last Name
    LSK
  • C4D Ver
    19.053 Studio
  • Location
    Oregon
  • Interests
    C4D, PC Building and Modding, 3D Printing, Small Electronics, Speaker Building, Drumming

Recent Profile Visitors

925 profile views
  1. Trabant studio standard

    Very nice model and excellent render
  2. Nice. Did you pull those sound samples from the game or is there online source you are using?
  3. 2 colour print

    Yea, Fallout. It is the Brotherhood of Steal code of arms. Same as the helmet I was printing. Got all the parts printed now just need to find time to put it all together and paint it.
  4. 2 colour print

    Nice! I was doing the same thing just before changing my new build plate. I am using the script I mentioned in other thread and it works fantastic. It also beeps when it reaches the layer you chose for filament swap. I see you are having the same problems trying to keep layers tight and closed up on second filament swap. I tried and changed the setting for nozzle diameter to .38 instead of .4 and it seams to help a lil bit.
  5. Anycubic build plate upgrade - CR10S

    I think some of them come with heat bad or even sticky back tape. Not sure if the ones with wires can be wired to CR10. Mine is just the Glass Plate just like this one here.
  6. The importance of having god adhesion to build plate while 3D printing is a absolute must. Unfortunately the stock glass plate that comes with CR10s is know to be not of the best quality and often warped. Even thou I figure out way to level it out, I decided to upgrade anyways. This Black Anycubic Build Plate comes in 310x310mm size which is perfect fit for CR10s and I love the way it looks with my black on black themed CR10. It has black perforated layer on one side and clean glass on the other. But most importantly it is perfectly flat. The perforated side suppose to make taking printed parts of the plate easier as it cools down. I found it to be about same as the glass which takes about 30 min to coll and then pick right of the glass with ease. It also does not leave smooth glass like finish on the part after removal, but instead... kind of Carbon Fiber type look. Adhesion is excellent. If anyone is still straggling with adhesion to mirror, glass type surface you can try my method and see if it helps. 1; Get your self a spray bottle of good All Purpose Cleaner preferably with out many harsh chemicals like bleach and such. I use Simple Green. 2; Spray directly on the build plate and rub away with microfiber rag. 3; Then use another clean microfiber rag that is lightly damped in water and wipe away the reminding cleaner from surface. 4; Set the right temp for bed, 65 for PLA works good for me. Dial in the right distance on nozzle to bed and print away. Note: If you purchased custom glass or mirror from your local hardware store it might have protective UV coating! That might prevent from god adhesion in 3D printing applications. I got my Anycubic plate from ebay , just search for "Anicubic Ultrabase" If you want one Hope this comes as help to someone, good luck and happy printing!
  7. Unreal Engine

    The camera behavior makes me think of flying drone footage. Other than that it looks pretty awesome.
  8. Raspberry Pi 3 & Octoprint

    Taking second look at your pics I just noticed your bed only travels vertically. So I see how it is ok for the camera.
  9. Raspberry Pi 3 & Octoprint

    Nice work! Doesn't that shake the camera like crazy being attached to the bed like that? I like the linear bearing system on your printer. I'm surprised Creality is not using linear rails and guides like that. I agree having option to run 12v fans would be the way to go. Way better variety of fans with number of performances. I just picked up pair of Noctua fans for case upgrade. Sorry can't help you with the g-code. I usually look up what other people use, then chunk out the pieces I want and add them to mine.
  10. Sorry lol, I could not resist...
  11. something really fat

    YES! I finally find purchase reason for VR set up.
  12. Well, you got long ways to go before you print. All I’m going to tell you is Don’t beat yours self up in the hurry. You can’t just jump in and model with out knowing the tools and having the necessary experience. It will take time to get comfortable with the program. Practice, watch tutorials, make notes and practice again... It helps to watch professional tutorials instead some YouTube “tool bag know it all” that obviously struggles to use the program. Check out Digital Tutors or Lynda or Cineversity. Good luck and don’t give up!
  13. Mirror Printing Bed

    Yes, I always watch and adjust as it is laying down the first layer. The thing with mirror I don't like is the reflection that is making it hard to see how close the nozzle is. I'm thinking of buying Black Anycubic Platform. I think it will be easier to see the filament "squishiness" on darker bed. I'm printing back part of T45-D Power Armor helmet from Fallout video game. And now I am kicking my arz for not chopping the top off and printing it separately. It would avoid printing all those supports in the middle and be probably done by now. 24hrs in 40% done and still stuck like a mad man! yey
  14. Happy New 2018 & 50000 members mark!!

    Happy new year to all!
  15. Mirror Printing Bed

    OK it's ON! Back to stock glass . Lot of aluminum foil cushion to get the warp out and no adhesion. Squeaky clean with 70 on the bed and 205 on the nozzle. My calibration test print stuck so well i had hard time to get it off . I feel so confidant I started 50 hour print. In the pic bellow second layer is going down and all looks good.

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