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DanLSK

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Everything posted by DanLSK

  1. Have anyone heard if the annual maintenance fees are still at play after R21? My annual maintenance is coming on the end of August and I just find it super silly since I have payed for both software in full and MAXON now owns Redshift. Also, Is the rumor about native C4D noises being revoked to work with Redshift correctly? Upping res on C4D noises in Redshift causes major slow downs. It pretty much bricks my pc when I play with the res :( If they fix this I'm trowing party at my house, who is coming?
  2. I have purchased the Hello LUXX one and I think it was worth the money. I was quite happy with the way they explained most of the nodes and what changes are needed within them to get desired outcome. C4d as a hobby, this was plenty of info for me to get strong grip on things. BTW the LFO Design has free video on how to use fields in Redshift. This might give you good Idea how the rest of the tut might be.
  3. This modeling approach is going to leave you with overlapping faces that are going to be headache to clean up. In my images below you can get clean result and all you have to do is scale the top to get the cone shape you going for.
  4. Another way to approach this would be creating 3x1x3 and lean it the way you want by selecting the most top polygons and moving them. Then ring select the vertical edges and use Edge Cut with Subdivision 2 and un-click Create N-gons.
  5. @Vizn I really just wanted to let the original poster know, that there is way to force S&S to build polygons in desired direction. Where you are getting confused is, not understanding that these polygons can not be build at any direction. This is not cinema problem or S&S. It is GEOMETRY. Simply rotate the cylinder and get it lined up where you want it.
  6. @ViznOK, I see what is happening there, and sorry for the confusion. So basically you are mixing two methods ... let me explain. Method one is - connecting two adjacent edges and then do the loop select and S&S... this method is ONLY for rotation segment of multiplications of 4 If the rotation segments are NOT coming to a whole number under division of 4, but it is coming to whole number under division of 2 then do the method 2. Method two is- imagine line connecting two adjacent points (basically splitting the cylinder in half) so build two polygons
  7. @Vizn My technique does work, I only forgot to mention one incredibly important detail. You have to use cylinder with rotations segments that is multiplications of 4! 12,16,20,24,28.... will always work. In your case, you have 30 rotation segments 30/4=7.5 not good. But if you really need to use 30 segments cylinder there is a work around, you could do it like i did in the image. I do agree, quad cap should be option in cinema, but the math does not always add up depending on rotation segments. And that is the same reason why stitch and saw has problems like in your c
  8. Before I had HB modeling tools I came up with technique to quad cap the cylinder. Part of it is solving problem you are describing. If you connect two adjacent edges (in the direction you desire) with a polygon then you can loop select one half and stitch and saw while holding shift. If it gives you undesired outcome try stitching from other direction. Do same for the other half.
  9. Yes... I taught I did , but I guess I didn't registered my final purchase Key with MAXON and that is what happen.
  10. To make things clear right of the bet, I do have legit license purchased trough MAXON web and own my key. Now I don't know how long that message been there or why it is there to begin with... but I find it strange. Any Ideas why? Should I contact MAXON? Everything else seams to work fine.
  11. I just wanted to get the SLA printer and see what a difference it is printing at .05 or even .025 and I got to say it is truly amazing the level of detail this can deliver. That is of course if I get so fortunate and get successful print out of this thing... Other then the lid, this printer comes fully assembled. But it is whole new headache to deal with the resin, bed leveling, print removal and cleaning ... Oh yea lets not forget the post process print UV light curing. I heard good things about Ender 3, I think you should go for it.
  12. Just shooting in the dark here, looking for someone to share some tips and tricks. I had the printer for about a week and starting to have mixed feelings whether I should keep it or return it while I can. Printer it self is incredibly touchy and the XYZware is real piece of work. When trying to slice or add supports of anything sculpted and hallowed out program crashes every time. Success to fail print ratio is fairly high and it becomes old quickly.
  13. I didn't noticed your file at first. Here I changed the internal material a bit 0012.c4d
  14. Wait, you are not talking about the dark refracted spots in the lettering right? Are you referring to the reflection of the lettering on the cylinder material it self? If so I don't think there is way to adjust the material to not do that unless there is some clever way to mask it of somehow. I guess you could introduce some roughness and perhaps less reflection, but then you are deviating from the material you are originally shooting for.
  15. Very nice introductory videos. Was hoping to learn something new but no. Wish I knew about them 8 months ago!
  16. Well I'm not sure if I'm understanding your question correctly, but if you want to export exact same dimensions as modeled in c4d to your slicer, then you need to make sure you are exporting in the same measuring units as you modeled. If you do modeling in mm ( set in c4d preferences/unit ) then make sure you are exporting to stl in mm 1.0 (scale 1 in millimeters - meaning 1:1 ratio). So in this case 10mm cube should show up as 10mm cube in slicer.
  17. Thanx Simmy! This video was actually very helpful because I wanted to do research on building my own UV curing station. And yes, I am fully aware of the chemical exposure and danger that it come with. Being a Journeyman Sheet Metal Worker makes it easy to build properly ventilated enclosure in the back of the mud room so no one has to be exposed to the nasty fumes. Safety first like he said! I did look at the DLP Anycubic Photon but I figured if I go resin, then might as well go SLA.
  18. I have been thinking about getting SLA resin printer. One of the ones I like is Moai which runs for $1200. The other one is Nobel which just recently drop down to $900 from $1600 or so :O They both share same size build plate but vary in software use and resin type. The Moai seems to be more flexible on resin use and is not limited to work with factory slicing program only. The level of detail these two printers can deliver is absolutely stunning and pretty much same. I mean, I can't see difference in quality from what I seen out there. Anyone have one
  19. Well, yes ... it is bad and I got to agree with the comments above. But if that is the absolute best you can do, give this plug-in a shot and see if that helps you. I have not use it and don't know how well it works but in this article they recommend it for your kind of modeling skills Cheers :)
  20. Nice. Did you pull those sound samples from the game or is there online source you are using?
  21. Yea, Fallout. It is the Brotherhood of Steal code of arms. Same as the helmet I was printing. Got all the parts printed now just need to find time to put it all together and paint it.
  22. Nice! I was doing the same thing just before changing my new build plate. I am using the script I mentioned in other thread and it works fantastic. It also beeps when it reaches the layer you chose for filament swap. I see you are having the same problems trying to keep layers tight and closed up on second filament swap. I tried and changed the setting for nozzle diameter to .38 instead of .4 and it seams to help a lil bit.
  23. I think some of them come with heat bad or even sticky back tape. Not sure if the ones with wires can be wired to CR10. Mine is just the Glass Plate just like this one here.
  24. The importance of having god adhesion to build plate while 3D printing is a absolute must. Unfortunately the stock glass plate that comes with CR10s is know to be not of the best quality and often warped. Even thou I figure out way to level it out, I decided to upgrade anyways. This Black Anycubic Build Plate comes in 310x310mm size which is perfect fit for CR10s and I love the way it looks with my black on black themed CR10. It has black perforated layer on one side and clean glass on the other. But most importantly it is perfectly flat. The perforated side suppose
  25. The camera behavior makes me think of flying drone footage. Other than that it looks pretty awesome.
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