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TheJimReaper

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TheJimReaper last won the day on November 19

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18 Noble Beginner

About TheJimReaper

  • Rank
    TheJimReaper
  • Birthday 10/29/1976

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  • First Name
    Jim
  • Last Name
    Field
  • C4D Ver
    18 Studio
  • Location
    Nottingham, UK
  • Interests
    My main interest is unquestionably C4D, I started using it in 2008 and I am obsessed with it, I had my current pc custom built specifically for C4D so I could create bigger and better things (not that the work I produce shows it)!!!

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  1. Creality3D CR - 10S

    It can can print ABS, along with Wood, Nylon, Carbon Fiber, TPU, PETG, and I think there's a couple of other types as well. But as @DanLSK mentioned it can reach those temps to print the filaments that require higher temperature, but it can struggle to retain them because it's open. This is why a lot of people build enclosures for them. A lot of people are moving away from printing with ABS because of the smell it creates when printing! It's not very nice and if your not in a well ventilated area it can stink the room out!
  2. Printer Ordered

    Did you scale the model yourself before printing? I've come across similar problems and it's come down to a scaling issue! I would keep an eye on the bed dropping, we were told the same thing by the manufacturer. They provided me with an edited version of the g-code when I collected the printer from them after it had been in for repairs, and it still did it. It also dropped right at the very end of the print when it had finished, in stead of it slowly lowering the platform it would just drop as if someone let go of it!
  3. Creality3D CR - 10S

    @DanLSK basically yes. With the CR-10 the bed is adjusted manually with knobs underneath to get it as level as possible. You use a feeler gauge or piece of A4 paper between the bed and the nozzle and adjust the knobs until you get a small amount friction when moving the paper around. When you get that at roughly 5 - 9 points around the bed you know it's pretty much level. When you have the bed levelling kit installed, you have a sensor attached next to the nozzle which reads the distance between it and the bed and adjusts accordingly. In theory you could have 5mm difference from one corner to the other and it would still print level, but in reality you'd only be dealing with something like 0.1 - 0.5mm difference.
  4. Creality3D CR - 10S

    Not sure I'd use the term expert, lol The CR-10 would definitely print these. If you print them at the 6inch height you mentioned earlier the thin arms and legs maybe a little weak, but with the right supports in place it shouldn't be a problem. This owl is one of the first things I printed whilst I was still playing with different settings, the little wire bits are about 1.5mm in diameter and they are solid, but they're also close together which helps. If you want to know for definite, send one of the models over and I'll print it out for you.
  5. Creality3D CR - 10S

    Ordering other things along with the printer depends on what you get with the printer. The CR-10 came with a mini tool kit containing a scrapper, screwdriver, a few allen keys, wire snips, and zip ties. The only addition thing I bought for it was an auto bed levelling kit, and some PEI. For bed adhesion I use PEI as all you need to do is give it a wipe every couple of prints with nail varnish remover. I've only used 1 sheet of it so far and I've been printing almost every day for the last 3 months and it's still as good as new. A lot of people use masking tape on the bed, in which case I'd buy a ton of it as you have to change it almost every print and you struggle with the filament sticking to it so you'll need either hairspray or glue sticks as well. Software wise, you should get everything you need to get you started. I think it was on Simmy's post about him ordering the Colido Compact printer that I mentioned slicer programmes. There's 2 versions of Cura (15.04.6 and 3.0.2) I don't know why there's 2 versions, they're both free and both by Ultimaker. There's also Slic3r and Repetier-Host, again both free. Then there's Simplify3D which is $149. I've got both the Cura slicers and Simplify3D. Cura 15.04.6 gives you better control over the printer when you're connected to the printer via usb. Cura 3.0.2 and gives you more control when it comes to settings and Simplify3Dgives you even more control and has a more user friendly interface. I find I flick back and forth better Cura 3.0.2 and Simplify3D as I find one can slice a model better than the other. All the slicers are Mac compatible and all except .stl and .obj
  6. Creality3D CR - 10S

    The CR-10 is pretty good at getting those finer details. But it doesn't just come down to the printer, you have to look at the settings as well. You could have the best printer in the world, but if the settings are wrong you'll end up with a right mess!! There's about a dozen settings to go through when printing! Here's a close up of the skull pot I printed and of an Owl pot, both prints where done with a layer height of 0.3mm. Although the adverts for the CR-10 say it can print at 0.1mm, people in the FB group for the CR-10 have printed at 0.07mm layer height! At that height the layers are barely visible and the fine details are amazing. Excuse the black dots on the skull pot, it's a bit of dust from where I dropped it!!
  7. Creality3D CR - 10S

    Yeah the enclosures do have a few bonuses, I think it comes down to what you're going to be printing. I don't intend print anything that an enclosure would benefit, so it doesn't bother me either way. Although an enclosure would keep things cleaner and tidier. Another thing you have to consider is access to different parts of the printer. With an open printer you can get all parts as and when you need to, where as an enclosure can restrict your access. The Colido that Simmy has just purchased and the printer I first started with has a small door on the front and a small hatch on the top, if you have big hands you can struggle to get your hands in there to adjust anything. Some of the problems I had with it I needed to have both hands inside and it was like working with both my hands tied together. A lot of people who have the CR-10 build enclosures out of kitchen units and small tables from Ikea around them to help retain heat whilst they're printing, specifically when using ABS filament, which require higher temps than PLA. Having said that people are moving away from using ABS because of some of the problems it causes and the smell it has whilst printing (it can stink the house out and it's not very pleasant!).
  8. Creality3D CR - 10S

    A couple of other prints. The Pangolin was my first articulated print. Except for the legs, it was printed as one object. I just had to gentle 'break' the joints so it could roll up. The other print was actually a tealight holder, but I resized it 250% and as it happened my cup fit perfectly. So now I have it on my desk as my cup holder!!
  9. Creality3D CR - 10S

    The quality is amazing. I got mine for just under £300 as I had an Amazon voucher. This is my biggest print so far. It was an experiment to see how well the print would be. It printed a lot quicker than I expected and IT IS water tight.
  10. Creality3D CR - 10S

    Welcome to the club You've got a slightly different version of the CR-10 to me. Mine didn't come with the dual z or filament detector upgrades, as they weren't added to the cr-10 until after I bought mine. The good thing about Creality is that they are slowly taking on board what the users are adding to their printers and then making them part of the CR-10 that they sell. Just a small word of warning! Don't believe the set up time of 10-20mins it took me about 45mins to get mine set up! There's a fantastic Facebook group just for CR-10 owners, who will help you with anything and everything. You can find it HERE Some of the first things you're going to want to print off are: Filament Guide with having the filament detector I don't know if you'll need this, but the filament rubs against one of the z-axis lead screws which can make the filament greasy. This guide pulls the filament away from the lead screw, stopping that problem. Duct Fan Mod This basically help to direct the air flow on to the filament, which in turn gives you a better finish. Bed levelling knob The knobs under the bed aren't very big and a bit awkward to get to, so everyone prints these out to make life a little easier! Strain relief bracket The cable going to the bed can sometimes get a little strained which can break the wire connection. This bracket strengthens that connection. There is a ton of other bits you can print out to help, but these are the basic ones to get you started. I found that when it came to bed levelling I was adjusting it ever 3 or 4 prints, so I went and bought myself an Auto bed levelling kit, and now I check it once a month just to make sure everything is ok. Personally I wouldn't bother using the masking tape that comes with it, as you'll probably need to use hairspray or a glue stick to help with adhesion. A lot of users print straight onto the glass, or replace the glass with a mirror. Ikea sell one that's 300 x 300mm, I think it's the lack range! But from what I've heard I still think you have to use hairspray with it! If you read Simmy's thread you'll see I suggested PEI. You can get some off Ebay or Amazon. I got 2 sheets for £25. With the pei you don't need anything extra, you just need to keep it clean with nail polish remover. There's a load of great sites for free models, Thingiverse is probably the main one. Then you have MyMiniFactory, another great site which have regular competitions where you can with merchandise and 3D printers. Yeggi is another great site, it's basically a search engine for printable 3D models. I get all my filament of ebay. I get the cheap stuff for testing out prints and then the better stuff for final prints. The cheap stuff cost just over £10 for 1kg of filament. Depending on which brand of the better filament you get it can cost you anything between £20 and £50 for 1kg. In all honesty there's not much of a difference between the cheap and the more expensive except you get a slightly better finish. I think I've pretty much covered the basics, but if I think of anything else I'll let you know and if you've got any questions feel free to message me. How long have you got to wait for delivery? The waiting drove me mad!!
  11. Printer Ordered

    You can add them in manually and I would have thought you could even do that in c4d. For this I would suggest leaving 0.05mm of a cap between the support and your model and try and make them as small as possible without it affecting the integrity of the model. I've always used the slicers settings to add the supports, so if your going to do them manually I'd also suggest watching some youtube videos on it. Simplify3d has the option to either manual add supports or automatically add them, and there's a couple of different sorts. You could do a couple of tests in different slicers before actually printing anything. After the slicer has sliced the model you get to see what it will look like when it comes off the printer so you can judge how easy they're going to be to remove. It's a bit hit and miss, some slicers add far to many, others don't add enough! If your not ready to purchase simplify3d, then download all the free ones and slice the same model in each of them with the same settings. And try different support settings as well, that can make a difference. If you haven't got them already, I'd suggest getting some sandpaper, sharp craft knife, scrapper, wire snips or scissors, and tweezers. A dremel works well too. They'll all help no end when removing prints from the bed and the supports, and cleaning it up afterwards.
  12. Printer Ordered

    For the Colido bed you should have masking tape on first, then either the glue stick or hairspray. If I didn't have a heated bed I'd need to use it as well! The PEI gives an amazing finish to the first layer. It's almost like mirror like, so smooth and shinny! The nozzle temp varies for what your using. For pla anything between 195 - 220 is good. I have mine set at 210 with a bed temp of 60. I've stuck to PLA for the time being, but will be trying flexible pla, wood, nylon and petg when they arrive. If you want to try abs, you'll want to try it in the shed or garage!! It smells whilst it's printing, and it's not very nice, it can stink the house out. You mentioned earlier about making a cookie cutter. Just something to be weary of although a lot of people use pla for them, pla isn't the best material and it's not dishwasher safe, it will warp!! You also have to consider the layer size as food particles can get stuck between the layers, which will then lead to other problems!
  13. Printer Ordered

    Sounds like your off to a good start. I don't know how much you know about the settings used when slicing the models, but I'll give you some pointers which will hopefully help. What slicer are you using? If I remember correctly the Colido comes with Cura 14. something? There's now an update for that to Cura 15.04. There's also a different version of Cura which is Cura 3.0.2. I don't know why there's 2 versions as they're both free and both by Ultimaker! As far as slicers go there's Cura 15.04, Cura 3.0.2, Slic3r, and RepeteirHost which are free. Then there is Simplify3D which is £113. There are others, but these are the top ones. For slicing Cura 15, Slic3r and RepetierHost I would say are adequate when you first start out. However both Cura 15 and RepetierHost give you better control of the printer itself than the others. Cura 3.0.2 is more advanced, it gives you a lot more control over how the model is sliced. Then you have Simplify3D which is slightly more advanced again with a better user interface. I've use Cura 15 for when I need to control the printer when connected via usb, this allows me to move the bed and nozzle, heat either or the bed and nozzle. I can also send various commands which controls certain things whilst it's printing. And then I use Simplify 3D as I get a lot more control over how the models are sliced and I can alter the gcode if I need to. I would suggest printing from the sd card, for the simple reason that if your computer goes down for any reason your printer will carry on, but as the Colido doesn't have a screen I'm not sure how that would work! Unless you start the print from your computer and then disconnect? Anything more than a 45° - 50° angle usually require supports. I say usually because on some printers you can bridge a gap, so you can go to a 90° angle without supports. I don't know how good the Colido will be at bridging, it's not something I tried. It also depends heavily on what cooling fans you have and how the airflow is directed. Stringing happens when the nozzle moves from one point to another without printing in between. If you don't retract the filament enough you get strings between the two parts, but if you retract to much it can miss a bit when it starts printing again. I've got mine set at retraction 7.5mm at a speed of 1800mm/min and with that I have no problems. Prints lifting off the bed and moving is down to bed adhesion. I used cheap hairspray when I was using the Colido, but glue sticks also help. I'm currently using PEI, it's amazing stuff. I got 2 300 x 300 sheets for £25, it sounds expensive!, but I've only used 1 sheets so far and have done around 75+ prints on it and it's still going strong. You can even dig a scraper in to it with out affecting it's performance. All you have to do is wipe it over with nail polish remover every couple of prints! With the size of the Colido's bed you should get a few pieces out of 1 piece. The only problem I see is I don't know how well it will work on a none heated bed! Hope this helps. Have fun over the weekend. Jim
  14. Printer Ordered

    I'm not sure about cancelling an order once it's on route, but you can return unopened and unused items for a full refund. So you do have that option if you want to take it? If you do try it, I'd definitely be interested to hear how you get on with it. Fingers crossed you get a better machine than I did. Good Luck!
  15. Printer Ordered

    I thought it would be great when I first read about it and I saw it being demo'd on Create and Craft on the TV. As my wife is a member of the club they have I got 10% off the price and could pay for it in 4 installments, which we thought was great. Creality who make the CR-10 make a whole range of printers. If you want one of a similar size to the Colido they do one called the Ender-2 mini, which is 150 x 150 x 200mm for £229 (on Amazon) As far as the Colido goes, I'll give you the main issues I had as there were so many! I suffered with it constantly clogging, it wouldn't feed the filament properly through to the nozzle and I was having to unscrew covers to clear it (this happened with all filaments including their own). When it was printing it wouldn't use the entire build plate, it would miss 1/2 an inch to 1 inch off one of the axis, so I was getting incomplete prints. I also had a problem with the build plate moving whilst it was printing. It's supposed to stick with suction! but I could never get it to stick well enough so I ended up taping it to the platform and cutting it free once the print had stopped. One of the last problems I had with it was the build platform would just suddenly drop whilst it was printing and the nozzle would carry on as if nothing was wrong. If you weren't there when it happened you'd end up with a tonne of wasted filament that looked like spaghetti! Tech support didn't really have a clue how, what, and why these problems were happening and would just have me send it back to them to look at and when it came back to me it would have another issue. Luckily one of the Print-Rite offices is 30mins up the road from me so I could drop it into them and collect it when it was done, which saved me a lot in postage costs. Which reminds of another point to warn you on. If you do have to send it back to them to be fixed watch where they tell you to send it to. They'll expect you to cover the cost of sending it to them for repairs! Firstly they wanted me to send it to their factory in China, and then it was Italy, before they gave me the UK office which happened to be in Nottingham where I live. When it came to sending to them I refused to send it to either China or Italy as it would have cost over £100 in postage! Since having the CR-10 I can pick a lot of other faults with the Colido, most of which are design issues. Levelling can be awkward as you don't have much room to get under the platform to turn the knobs, and if you don't have a mini spirit level, there's no real way of telling if the build plate is level. And even then you can't really tell until you start printing something! You might also find you have to start the print 3 or 4 times before you get the filament to stick to the the build plate. I found that cheap hair spray helped a lot with that! The photos are of 2 of the issues I had with it, I did have more but can't seem to find them. As I said before, I might have just been unlucky and had a bad machine, so you may not have any of the problems I did. Bu tI thought I should give you the heads up about possible issue that might arise. Jim

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