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deck last won the day on November 2 2018

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About deck

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  • C4D Ver
    18.057 Studio
  • Location
    Epsom, UK
  • Interests
    Photography, computers, Motorcycles

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  1. Hi CBR I will try that square one tomorrow, and not quite happy with the slice here, i thought it was forward of centre but not so sure now. Your method makes it really easy to redo it, don't think I would have arrived there myself, brain still isn't making those intuitive leaps yet. Thanks again Deck
  2. Wicked, that went really well. started with loft which just seems easier to rotate and position. Then the loops and scaling from one side. I wanna make one really pointy at the top and I think I need to start again and move some of he points nearer to the top point if that makes sense. No hair pulling at all, great fun when it works well. Deck added a bit of weighting to the left one
  3. Hi CBR Thats nice, i though about a loft but not a simple one like that. I saw a completed one on turbo squid that looked like your final one and I wondered how the guy had rotated the loops, doh ! Of course with the top and bottom established they just slot into place, perfect. I see you went 16 rotations too. I will have a crack at that, any thoughts on that second squarer shape. Many thanks Deck
  4. Hi Cafe Im guessing this is a simple thing for all you topomasters out there, i think i could get this done but thought i would ask for tips and best methods before I start the hair pulling. This is just a test project, so its not this shape specifically Im after but more the principle of chopping this wedge off of this cone. Ive set this one up with a boole to get an idea of the shape, I did clean one up to an extent but Im wondering if I should start with more rotations. Part of me says to make the cross section and then model off that but maintaining the cylinder then becomes tricky. Then there is the second shape with two flat sides and a more rectangular top, now that looks a bit tricky to me. All tips tricks and advice most welcome Deck Liptip test 03.c4d
  5. The way to go is do it as if you were doing it with a camera in the real world, i.e. set up for a single shot, rotate it around and shoot say every ten degrees until you have gone all the way around. With these renders you have what is called a single row vr, you stitch this together with an app like object2vr by garden gnome. If you want to look over the top of it you need to rotate the camera up and shoot more rows, so at 10 egress yo have 36 images per row. The app spits out the spinning file with the appropriate web code etc. Im sure there are other apps and it docent have to be 10 degrees but that works quite well and seems smooth, 20 degrees is a bit steppy Deck
  6. I dont do much animation but when i do stills i use a compositing tag on my floor and tick the compositing BG option. Once thats done the image stays exactly as the original. Colour space will play a part too. Deck
  7. I used that trick of command clicking the item and show help from the pop out menu. I often find the search in the manual less than helpful, but doing the same search online often throws up the page in the online manual. Not graduated past model mode myself. Deck
  8. Dont do much animation but have it in R18 too, grab from manual below Deck
  9. same thing but with falloff on the light Deck
  10. Hiya My poor old machine doesn't like that many lights but I think whats happening is that the geometry you have cloned your lights onto, the left side is also partly blocking the light. So if you make a copy of left side so you have one for actual geometry and one that you make invisible but clone the lights onto, then you can move the copy with the lights on just a little so they aren't blocked in any way by the geometry. I think thats whats going on, also you have no falloff on your lights so they are blasting the floor away, that may be what your after. The top grab below is as you have it and the bottom is cloned onto copy and moved a bit. Deck
  11. looks the business already, texture looks awesome to me. Dunno where you find the time for all this stuff. Deck
  12. Bit hard to visualise for me, but maybe you could use the blend mode, i.e. make two clones with different spins and use blend on the cloner to have everything in-between. Deck
  13. Your references would appear to be more silhouettes than shadows, i.e. you are looking at a large bright background with parts of it hidden creating a silhouette, as opposed to a shadow cast by the light onto the surface. Deck
  14. And finally...... Hi CBR, thought I would post my finalish result for the widget so you might see the fruits of some of your labour. I did manage to stay all quads apart from the capsules I used for the LEDs. I think my skills ran out just before my patience and so the microphone and speaker holes were done with displacement. It would have been real hard for me to position them exactly with the new level of subdiv. In the same spirit I used a collision deformer to poke out 4 tiny bumps on the bottom that act as little feet. Obviously displacement for all the type too. I also tend to use the bevel deformers to tighten up the edges, mainly cos it gives me the ability to change my mind on the sharpness which is often hard to judge till final output. I have renderers of the coloured LEDs to play with too, maybe an animated GIF or similar, bit of a mare to light being a flat black rubberised material, I may revisit that. Once again thanks for all the help and advice, much appreciated. Deck
  15. I find the easiest thing in that situation is to render the reflection on black, then in pshop you can put it on in screen mode or similar and grad it in or out as you see fit. There may be a more elegant cinema method but that way gives them the reflection on a layer. Deck



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